Seikaen Head Shop

A short 10-minute walk from JR Kyoto Station, on the west side of the Kamo River, lies a neighborhood Chinese restaurant called Seikaen Head Shop. Established in 1983, this locally rooted Chinese eatery with 32 seats has been in business for over 40 years. Yet, this place has become something of a ‘pilgrimage site for rugby fans,’ drawing enthusiasts from all over Japan. Why do rugby lovers gather at this Kyoto neighborhood Chinese restaurant? Well……

Behind-the-scenes stories from the legendary Showa-era drama “School Wars”… This is what Seikaen Head Shop is like…

Do you remember the drama “School Wars,” which aired on the TBS network for six months from October 1984 to April 1985? It tells the story of a former Japanese national rugby team member who becomes a teacher at a chaotic high school filled with delinquents and leads them to a national championship victory through rugby. For those who remember the Showa era, it’s surely etched in memory as one of the great dramas. Those a bit more knowledgeable might also know this drama was based on a true story from Fushimi Technical High School in Kyoto (now renamed Kyoto Kogakuin High School following Kyoto City’s high school reorganization)…

Actually, the owner of this Seikaen Head Shop is a graduate of that very Fushimi Technical High School rugby club. What’s more, he was a first-year student the very year the former national rugby player took the helm. He knows the entire true story that inspired School Wars. The day I visited the shop, he was enthusiastically sharing behind-the-scenes stories from School Wars with customers who seemed to have come from far away. Well, it’s no wonder customers who watched this drama back in the day gather here from all over the country…

This is definitely influenced by rugby, right… How did the three items I ordered at Seikaen Head Shop that day actually turn out?

Alright, let me introduce the three items I ordered at Seikaen Head Shop that day, including drinks, one by one. First up is beer, but it arrives in a style you won’t find at other places! This is definitely influenced by rugby, right…

Kettle Beer

The first item at Seikaen Head Shop is this “Kettle Beer.” You can choose from three sizes: 1L, 2L, or 3L. The image above shows the smallest size, 1L. In rugby, I heard they used to pour water from a kettle over teammates knocked down in contact play to wake them up. This “Kettle Beer” must have gotten its idea from that, I’m sure.

At first glance, the kettle looks so small you’d wonder, “Is there really 1L in this?” But it actually poured just over five small mugs, so it seems to hold about 1L. It’s probably just bottled beer poured into a kettle, so it lacks the delicious foam of draft beer. Still, for the older generation who played rugby, it might stir up emotions we younger folks can’t quite grasp.

Gyoza

And to pair with this beer, I went with the quintessential beer snack: gyoza (6 pieces for ¥500 including tax). Compared to the gyoza from Gyoza no Ohsho, which has become the default neighborhood Chinese spot for Japanese people, these are smaller in size. They’re closer to what you’d call geisha-style gyoza, like little Gyoza Hohei.

The wrappers are thin, the filling has a slightly higher pork ratio, and perhaps because it’s Kyoto, the garlic seems restrained. As a beer snack eaten plain, they’re perfectly fine. However, the vinegar soy sauce that came with them was too sour for my taste. Personally, I found it a bit… off. Adding more chili oil than usual might balance it out.

Chinese Rice Cracker

And finally, for the rice dish… I ordered the Chinese rice cracker (price: 1,200 yen including tax), something you’d expect to find at any neighborhood Chinese joint but surprisingly isn’t common. The owner pours the thick gravy over the rice bowl right in front of you, so you can enjoy the sizzling sound as the ingredients react to the heat of the gravy.

As for the taste, it’s quite light. A nice balance of soy sauce flavor and the savory aroma of sesame oil… especially the sesame oil flavor is truly delightful, making it easy to keep shoveling spoonful after spoonful into the mouth. While packed with crispy vegetables, the main fried rice bits react to the sauce and become meltingly soft. Combined with the sauce, it creates a texture like rice soup, sliding smoothly down the throat. The portion size is larger than it looks, and when I finished, I thought, “I’m so glad I ordered this…”

That’s how I spent just under an hour at Seikaen Head Shop before leaving. I know nothing about rugby, but it was just a really comfortable place to be. Plus, most menu items are around ¥1000, typical neighborhood Chinese restaurant pricing, so it’s a great spot for everyday dining. However, the owner is getting on in years, so you might not get to hear School Wars stories for much longer. There was a period when they closed temporarily due to the owner’s poor health, so School Wars fans especially should visit sooner rather than later.

Other menu items at Seikaen Head Shop (prices include tax)

• Fried Rice: ¥850
• Shrimp in Chili Sauce: ¥1500
• Seafood Mixed Noodles: ¥1200
• Eight Treasure Vegetable Dish: ¥1100
• Sweet and Sour Pork: ¥1,100
• Mapo Tofu: ¥1,050
• Tianjin Rice: ¥950

Various rugby-related events are also held! Access to Seikaen Head Shop is a 5-minute walk from the nearest station, Keihan Railway’s Shichijo Station.

At Seikaen Head Shop, various rugby-related events are held, such as public viewings of rugby tournaments and talk shows featuring current top players. It’s probably the place in the whole country where the most passionate rugby fans gather. Even if you don’t know much about rugby, you can still get caught up in the excitement and have a great time. Be sure to check the restaurant’s website occasionally for schedules, especially when big matches are approaching.

Now, here are the restaurant details…

P.S. If you are looking for delicious Chinese foods in Kyoto, please stop by this article below…