Shokudo Hayashi

Traditional Japanese teishoku (set meal) restaurants seem to be polarizing into two types: those that sadly fade away, and those that remain beloved by locals and thrive. What do you think? While I wish every shop could stay open forever, the rise and fall of businesses is inevitable, and some closures are unavoidable.

But on the other hand, the teishoku restaurants that endure gain a vintage charm, becoming more precious with each passing year, right? This time, I’d like to introduce one such place in Kyoto: Shokudo Hayashi. When I actually visited the restaurant, it was exactly what I hoped it would be… in the best possible way.

Numerous comedians have visited over the years… Shokudo Hayashi is a place like this…

Shokudo Hayashi started as an ice candy shop right after the war in 1949 (Showa 24), then reopened as an udon restaurant four years later in 1953 (Showa 28). As set meal menus gradually gained popularity, the shop shifted its focus to offering mainly set meals, continuing operations to this day. Counting from its ice candy shop days, this long-lived set meal restaurant is approaching its 80th anniversary. While it might not quite qualify as a “long-established shop” by Kyoto standards, that doesn’t diminish its value as a cultural asset.

Stepping inside, you instantly feel the incredibly homey atmosphere of “the quintessential Showa-era teishoku restaurant.” The TV at the back is a must-have item for any Showa-era teishoku restaurant, right? However, while it might seem like an ordinary teishoku restaurant at first glance, the walls are lined with autographed posters from many celebrities, primarily Yoshimoto comedians, displayed in an overwhelmingly abundant manner. With its status as a “favorite spot for Yoshimoto comedians,” it likely attracts not only local regulars but also many new customers like travelers.

The tonkatsu teishoku seems to be the most popular menu item… but how was the sesame tonkatsu teishoku I ordered at Shokudo Hayashi?

Well, looking at the menu, it seems the tonkatsu teishoku is the most popular item at Shokudo Hayashi. The reason is obvious once you see what arrives, but what gave me pause was the four sauce variations for the tonkatsu teishoku (demiglace sauce, grated daikon, miso, sesame). Among these, I decided to go for something a bit different this time and chose the sesame tonkatsu teishoku. The price is the same for all four sauces: 1,050 yen including tax. About five minutes after ordering, the sesame tonkatsu set meal arrived looking like this…

It might be a bit hard to tell from the picture above, but there are actually two pieces of tonkatsu. Not a double tonkatsu, mind you. This is the standard tonkatsu set menu. You get this, plus rice, miso soup, and pickles, all for 1,050 yen. Isn’t that a price that makes your eyes water?

Of course, compared to a true tonkatsu specialty shop… well, there’s that. But conversely, this tonkatsu has that comforting, homestyle flavor you’d expect from a regular diner. Pork loin cutlets about 5mm thick, coated in a relatively thick, crispy batter, topped generously with a sauce resembling salad-style sesame dressing… Doesn’t it make you feel like your mom is telling you, “Eat up!” when you get home?

So, Shokudo Hayashi is a place where you can reliably get what most Japanese people who lived through the Showa era crave. If you want to feel not just the Showa retro atmosphere, but the homey vibe of a Showa-era set meal restaurant, this place comes highly recommended. True to a Showa-era set meal restaurant, the menu is also extensive. Eating here will surely fill not just your stomach, but your heart too.

Other Menu Items at Shokudo Hayashi (Prices include tax)

• Chicken Katsu Set Meal: ¥1,000
• Seafood Mix Set Meal: ¥950
• Fried Chicken Set Meal: ¥950
• Chicken and Egg Rice Bowl: ¥750
• Curry Rice: ¥680
• Kitsune Udon/Soba: ¥550
• Nabeyaki Udon: ¥900

Perfect for solo drinking… Access to Shokudo Hayashi is a 2-minute walk from Higashiyama Station on the Kyoto Municipal Subway Tozai Line.

At Shokudo Hayashi, they serve alcohol including beer, making it perfect for that classic Showa-era solo drinking experience. The retro shop, beer, and TV… truly the “three sacred treasures” for soaking in Showa nostalgia. But what sets it apart from other set meal shops is that here, you can get draft beer, not just bottled beer. Draft beer while watching TV in a Showa retro set meal shop… For self-proclaimed middle-aged men, isn’t that, to put it mildly, the best?

Now, here are the shop details…