Rishiri

世の中には「オロチョンラーメン」っていうラーメンがあるの、知ってますか？「オロチョン」ってアイヌ語で「火祭り」の意味らしく（注：諸説あります）、そこから派生して「火を噴くほど辛い味噌ラーメン」のことを「オロチョンラーメン」と呼ぶようになったのだとか。ネットで調べる限り、今のところ関西では食べられるお店はなさそうですね。ただ全国レベルで調べると、各地でちらほら提供しているお店があるみたいです。

で、そのオロチョンラーメンであまりにも有名になったお店が東京の新宿にあるのですが、実際どんなものか試すべく、歌舞伎町にある利しりというお店に行ってきました。このお店、新宿歌舞伎町で営業しているということもあるのですが、かなり味のあるお店でしたね…

Operating for over 50 years in the deep end of Shinjuku Kabukicho… Rishiri is a place like this…

Today’s target, Rishiri, is located in a very deep end area. It’s north of the bustling restaurant district, in a dark and shady area. The surrounding area features night spots catering to men and young women standing on the streets. While daytime might be manageable, walking around here at night would be pretty nerve-wracking for anyone unfamiliar with it. Especially since Rishiri is a late-night spot, you have to endure this tension to get your hands on their Orochon Ramen.
I arrived at the shop around 11 PM on a weekday night, and the clientele inside was quite unique. It was about half groups of young people who looked like they were out partying in Kabukicho, and half pairs of older men and young women who seemed to be about a generation apart. All these customers sharing the same time and space inside this retro building, over 50 years old… Plus, the background music was jazz, creating this elusive, chaotic atmosphere. You’d be hard-pressed to find another ramen shop with this level of chaos anywhere in the country, wouldn’t you?

Huh? It’s not miso ramen… but how was Rishiri’s signature Orochon Ramen when I tried it?

So, let me introduce the signature Orochon Ramen (price: ¥1,400 including tax) I ordered at Rishiri that day. About 15 minutes after ordering, the ramen arrived looking like this…

I’m not sure if the image conveys it, but the bowl is huge. It looks incredibly filling. It might not quite reach Ramen Jiro levels, but even as a regular serving, it easily looks like more than a large portion.

Alright, let’s dive right into the soup… Huh? This isn’t miso ramen? Actually, Rishiri has a separate menu item called Miso-chon Ramen, which is miso-based. The default Orochon Ramen is a soy sauce-based ramen. It’s a spicy soy sauce ramen, and if I had to compare it to Kansai ramen, it’s probably closest to Saika Ramen. It lacks the roasted aroma of Saika Ramen, but it has a gentle side to its spiciness (incidentally, Orochon Ramen lets you customize the spiciness from “Double Mild” to “9x Hot” in 7 levels; I went with ‘Regular’ this time). That gentleness probably comes from the soft-shell turtle broth? The spiciness is strong enough that I can’t quite pinpoint it as “definitely soft-shell turtle broth!”, but I absolutely love this flavor.

The noodles paired with this are medium-thick, curly noodles. Their surface is smooth, making them pleasant to slurp, and the curls effectively soak up the soup. With each slurp, the unique flavor of the broth fills your mouth. The noodles are cooked to a standard firmness—neither too hard nor too soft—offering a satisfying chew. As expected from their appearance, they’re substantial, easily filling even the stomachs of young people with big appetites.

Now, this Orochon Ramen doesn’t include chashu pork, but instead features a variety of toppings like thinly sliced pork, bell peppers, menma bamboo shoots, and wood ear mushrooms. The crisp bell peppers and plump, springy wood ear mushrooms… personally, I got hooked on the wood ear mushrooms. Packed with vegetables, it’s healthy, right? Eating this late at night should come with zero guilt.

So, I finished Rishiri‘s signature Orochon Ramen in about 10 minutes and left the shop. My stomach was pretty full late at night, but I didn’t regret it one bit. Packed with veggies and loaded with soft-shell turtle broth… Honestly, for health’s sake, shouldn’t you push yourself to finish every last drop of this soup? People in the Shinjuku area who can eat this ramen anytime… I’m super jealous…

Other Ramen Menu Items at Rishiri (Prices include tax)

• Miso Chon Ramen: ¥1,400
• Rishiri Ramen: ¥1,400
• Miso Ramen: ¥1,400

Note: Large portions and various toppings available for an additional charge.

Are there affiliated stores in Hiratsuka and Isehara too? Access to Rishiri is a 5-minute walk from the nearest station, Seibu Shinjuku Line/Seibu Shinjuku Station.

It seems you can also enjoy Rishiri‘s Orochon Ramen in Hiratsuka and Isehara, Kanagawa Prefecture. The two Kanagawa locations are named “Orochon Ramen Rishiri.” Looking at images posted on Tabelog, they appear identical to the Orochon Ramen I ate at Shinjuku Rishiri this time. However, it’s unclear whether these shops are affiliated branches or completely separate establishments. If you have reliable information, please share what you know in the comments below!

Now, here are the shop details…

It’s a 7-minute walk from JR Shinjuku Station East Exit.

P.S. If you’re looking for delicious ramen in Tokyo, be sure to check out this article too…

P.P.S. Come to think of it, there was a place in Kyoto that served ramen with soft-shell turtle broth too…