Henkotsu

I visited Henkotsu, a top-tier unique izakaya in Ohori’s foodie scene, located right in front of JR Kyoto Station. It once operated under three strict rules: no women allowed, no lingering, and membership only. The name “Henkotsu” means ‘eccentric’ or “stubborn,” and you might be tempted to quip, “So the rules match the name!” about those initial three restrictions. However, all three rules have now been abolished, and even first-time customers can walk right in as long as there’s an open seat.

And this Henkotsu place? Right after scrapping those three rules, it achieved the remarkable feat of being selected for Tabelog’s “Izakaya WEST Top 100.” It’s a place that generates buzz in all sorts of ways, huh? So, what’s it actually like…?

Even after the rule was abolished, the service still seems to have its quirks… This is the kind of place Henkotsu is.

I arrived at Henkotsu around 6 PM on a weekday evening. Just as I got there, a female customer was leaving the restaurant. Seeing this confirmed both the fact the women-only rule was gone and that there was one empty seat inside, so I promptly entered. I was guided to the only vacant seat, a counter seat at the back, and sat down.

The compact interior, steeped in Showa retro charm, felt like it had preserved the long history since its founding in 1946. Roughly counting, there were 23 seats (13 counter stools + 1 table seating 10). I didn’t notice it at all during my visit, but looking at Google reviews, it seems the staff still have a certain style even after the rule was abolished. They tend to be especially harsh towards female customers or those who look like tourists. So, while I feel terrible for the women, I think going solo as a man is probably best for this place. But looking back, that solo female customer who left right before me… she was seriously brave…

First things first: order meat and drinks! How did the three stewed dishes I ordered at Henkootsu taste?

Alright, let me walk you through the three dishes + one extra I ordered that day at Henkootsu, one by one. But first, one important note. Apparently, if you don’t order meat and alcohol with your initial order at this place, you might risk angering the owner. So… not that it’s because of that, but I’ll start by ordering a bottle of beer and enjoy the food while drinking. If you don’t drink alcohol, they do have oolong tea on the drink menu (price: 350 yen including tax)…

Tail & Muscle Assortment

First up was the Tail and Muscle Assortment (price: ¥1,500–1,850, tax included). Since Henkotsu‘s meat menu only offers two options—tail and muscle—I figured, “Why not get this one so I can try both?”

And wow, the meat that arrived was a massive chunk. Probably about the size of a grown adult’s fist? Well, the tail part is bone-in, so that bulk includes the bone, of course. Just as expected, the meat was meltingly tender, the muscle was plump and springy, and the red miso-based broth had an indescribably rich depth… This is definitely addictive. Not just the meat, but I also highly recommend soaking the generously piled chopped green onions in the broth and eating them together.

Oden (tofu, fish cake, potato)

Next, at Henkotsu, I ordered three types of oden—tofu, fish cake, and potato—which are treated more like side dishes. Prices vary per item from 110 yen to 250 yen depending on the ingredient, but since the max is 250 yen, any order is cheaper than other oden specialty shops. In fact, you could even call it convenience store pricing.

It seems this oden is cooked in a separate pot from the broth used for simmering meat. While it does have the color of red miso, the broth felt lighter compared to the one used for the tail and muscle assortment. Judging by the firmness of the potatoes, they didn’t seem to have simmered for very long, and the flavor hadn’t penetrated deeply either, resulting in a lighter taste than its appearance suggests. By the way, at Henkotsu, the rule seems to be that you reuse the same dishware served to you initially until the end. So, when ordering, you need to hand your bowl to the staff. Watching the other customers, they would thoroughly drink the broth left in their bowls before placing their next order.

Salvage

And finally, I ordered the Salvage (price: 790 yen including tax), arguably the signature dish of Henkotsu. “Salvage” means marine rescue or raising a sunken ship in English, but here it literally refers to scooping up the small bits of ingredients that have settled at the bottom of the miso stew.

So, these scooped-up ingredients are essentially boiled scraps. But don’t underestimate them. In fact, it’s precisely because they’re boiled scraps that they have such flavor. Having broken off from larger chunks and settled at the bottom, they’re incredibly tender—far beyond what they were as whole pieces—and soaked through with broth to an extraordinary degree. What’s more, it’s not just tail meat and beef tendon; I suspect there’s liver and other offal in there too… Eating this reminded me of the offal rice bowl I had at Kitsuneya in Tsukiji, Tokyo. Like the oxtail and muscle platter I had earlier, this red miso stew feels like a Japanese-style beef stew.

The total for these three dishes plus a large bottle of beer was just over 4,000 yen – quite reasonable. The lack of an appetizer is another cost-saving point. The red miso stew has such a rich, deep umami flavor that you don’t need to order much to feel properly full. Also, no complimentary appetizer is another reason it’s affordable. Personally, I feel like just the salvage and one drink at this place, Henkotsu, would be plenty satisfying. That would only cost around 1,500 yen, and if the shop is okay with it and welcomes me back, I might just do that next time…

Henkotsu’s Large Pot Dining: Other Food Menu Items (Prices Include Tax)

• Soup: ¥350
• Oxtail: Medium size from ¥1,400
• Beef Tendons: ¥830
• Assorted Oden Platter (8 Items): ¥1,500
• Assorted Pickles Platter (3 Items): ¥530

Even after the rules were abolished, lingering is still unnecessary… Access to Henkootsu is a 7-minute walk from JR Kyoto Station, the nearest station.

Henkootsu is like this. Even though it’s become easier to enter since the rules were abolished, lingering is still unnecessary. Or rather, the menu selection is limited, and it wasn’t really designed for lingering in the first place. You can’t make reservations, and it’s not really suited for group parties or banquets. But conversely, it’s a great spot for a quick drink alone. Think of it for meeting someone at Kyoto Station and grabbing a light drink while waiting, or stopping by when you’re still craving more after drinking elsewhere. That’s probably the best way to use it.

Now, here are the shop details…

P.S. If you are looking for a cozy izakaya in Kyoto, please stop by this article below…