Ukiya Pontocho Head Shop

I visited Ukiya Pontocho Head Shop, located in a charming spot just north of Kyoto’s Pontocho district, right next to the Kaburenjo Theater. This long-established soba restaurant, founded in 1929, is approaching its 100th anniversary. While the third-generation owner now runs the business, it turns out this third-generation proprietor has an incredible career background. I didn’t know that fact until I actually visited the shop. So, what makes this person so remarkable…

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Operated by Japan’s only nationally certified soba master… Ukiya Pontocho Head Shop is this kind of restaurant…

The third-generation owner of Ukiya, Mr. Yoshiharu Mishima, has apparently been awarded both the Yellow Ribbon Medal and the Blue Ribbon Medal by the government for his contributions to promoting soba culture. Honestly, I don’t know what either the Yellow Ribbon Medal or the Blue Ribbon Medal actually are. But just from the names, you get this feeling like, “Hmm, that sounds pretty impressive…” It seems that right now, this is the only place in Japan where we can eat soba made by such an incredibly skilled soba master! If that’s the case, for soba lovers, this must be a must-visit spot in Kyoto.

Now, Ukiya Pontocho Head Shop is a small two-story building. Roughly counting by eye, there were about 10 seats on the first floor and 20 seats on the second floor, all table seating. But Tabelog lists the total seating as 52 seats… the numbers don’t add up at all. I’m not quite sure, but there was a staircase inside leading down from the first floor to the basement, so maybe there’s seating down there too. Despite its long history, the interior is bright and clean, completely lacking the intimidating atmosphere sometimes found in some long-established shops. You can pop in anytime, any day, to casually slurp down some soba, so rest assured on that front…

What was it really like to try the nishin soba at Ukiya Pontocho Head Shop, made by the hand-made soba artisan who received the Yellow Ribbon Medal?

So, let me introduce the nishin soba (price: ¥1,580 including tax) I ordered this time at Ukiya Pontocho Head Shop. About five minutes after ordering, the herring soba arrived before me looking like this…

A slightly smaller bowl holds a single filleted herring lying flat—the familiar sight of Kyoto’s famous nishin soba. The aroma of bonito flakes wafts intensely from this bowl… Just the scent of this broth alone could easily make me polish off three bowls of plain rice.

Now, about that broth… It’s made with light soy sauce and has a sharp, salty kick, yet overall it’s incredibly light. The term “light and dry” used for sake fits it perfectly. Because of that lightness, you just want to keep taking more sips, enjoying the broth aroma wafting up to your nose as you gulp it down… This broth is seriously addictive.

According to the menu, the noodles for this dish appear to be shichisan soba. With wheat flour added as a binder, they’re smooth, easy to slurp, and glide down the throat nicely. They’re cooked on the softer side, yet lack stickiness and offer a light, fluffy texture when chewed. And with each strand passing down my throat, the broth’s aroma gently wafts back… Though I ordered the herring soba this time, even if it had been plain soba, I would have been perfectly satisfied.

Now, the only topping that comes with this soba is the salted nishin (herring). It’s not rock-hard like the herring at the Sohonke Nishin Soba Matsuba Head Shop, nor is it flaky like the herring at Misoka-an Kawamichiya. It holds its shape when picked up with chopsticks, yet it’s just the right softness when bitten into. But the flavor is still robust. This herring is incredibly sweet. The way that sweet herring and the broth harmonize in your mouth is just irresistible. It’s a real shame I can’t quite put it into words…

This is how it went: savoring every last drop of broth from the herring soba I ordered at Ukiya Pontocho Head Shop before settling the bill. That title ‘Handmade Soba Craftsman Awarded the Yellow Ribbon Medal’ was no empty boast. While Kyoto has many other delicious soba restaurants, there are plenty of reasons to choose Ukiya. Besides the Pontocho Head Shop, they have four locations in Kyoto City: the Hotel Okura Kyoto Branch, the Takashimaya SC Branch, and Kiyomizu Kichiharu-an. Why not try Ukiya’s soba at the branch nearest you?

Other Menu Items at Ukiya Pontocho Head Shop (Prices include tax)

• Tempura Soba: ¥1,650
• Yama-kake Soba: ¥1,580
• Chicken Nanba Soba: ¥1,500
• Kyoto Kujo Negi Soba: ¥1,500
• Uki Soba: ¥1,100
• Kake Soba: ¥900
• Seiro: ¥800

Online shop also available… Access to Ukiya Pontocho Head Shop: 3-minute walk from the nearest station, Keihan Railway Sanjo Station.

At such a place as Ukiya, they also run an online shop, so you can order their soba noodles delivered anywhere in the country. However, when I checked the site, the “Kakesoba” and “Nishin Soba” were sold out, and only “Zarusoba” was available for purchase. Their mail order service is incredibly popular… In this situation, you’ll just have to check the site frequently and make a quick purchase as soon as it’s restocked. But since it’s a precious opportunity to eat soba made by nationally recognized artisans, I highly recommend giving it a try at least once.

Now, here are the shop details…

It’s a 6-minute walk from Kyoto City Hall Station on the Kyoto Municipal Subway Tozai Line, or an 8-minute walk from Kyoto Kawaramachi Station on the Hankyu Kyoto Line.