Nakamura Tokichi Main Store

Uji City in Kyoto Prefecture is famous in Japan as a major producer of matcha. When you hear about a long-established tea merchant in Uji City that has been in business for over 170 years—since the Edo period—surely no one would have anything bad to say about the quality of the matcha sold there, right? What’s more, it’s not just about having been in business for so long; they’ve even opened a casual café on the premises so people can enjoy matcha more easily… If you’re a matcha lover, there’s no reason not to try the matcha sweets at that shop—Nakamura Tokichi Main Store—right? So…

Even though it was a weekday afternoon, the wait was ridiculously long… Just how crowded is Nakamura Tokichi Main Store?

I visited Nakamura Tokichi Main Store around 12:15 p.m. on a weekday. When I arrived in front of the store, I saw a few customers coming out of the building with its impressive gate, and since there was no line, I thought, “Lucky me!” and went inside. But my assumption at that moment was way too optimistic. Right inside the entrance, there was a ticket dispenser, and to my shock, the screen displayed the terrifying number: “87 groups waiting.” Not 87 people, but 87 groups… Of course, there were probably solo customers like me, but since many guests were visiting in groups of two, three, or four, I imagine there were close to 200 people waiting to get in at that moment.

Seeing that number made my head spin, but I had no choice but to take a number and wait patiently. At the Nakamura Tokichi Main Store, there’s a shop selling matcha and sweets right as you enter, and the café is located further back, separated by a courtyard where a magnificent Horai-funematsu pine—estimated to be about 250 years old—towers overhead. Benches were set up so you could gaze at this Horai-funematsu pine, and many customers were relaxing in the courtyard while they waited. They occasionally served free tea to customers waiting to be seated, so waiting inside wasn’t too bad. However, even though it was a weekday afternoon, the wait time—2 hours and 20 minutes—was ridiculously long. To be honest, that was completely unexpected…

A Refreshing Experience Like No Other… Nakamura Tokichi Main Store’s Signature “Maruto Parfait”—What Was It Like to Try It?

So, let me introduce the signature “Maruto Parfait [Matcha]” (2,180 yen, tax included) that I ordered that day at the Nakamura Tokichi Main Store. After waiting about 15 minutes from the time I placed my order, the Maruto Parfait was brought to my table—and here’s what it looked like…

Inside the ice-cold bamboo tube, the matcha desserts are beautifully arranged to form a “circle and ten” design. This “circle and ten” is read as “Maruto,” and apparently, it’s the Nakamura family crest that has been passed down since the store’s founding.

Well, enough with the trivia—let’s get down to tasting it. This Maruto Parfait features…

• Matcha “Senun no Shiro”
• Matcha ice cream
• Lemon jam
• Fresh tea jelly “Matcha”
• Special cream for the Maruto Parfait
• Matcha chiffon cake
• Okoshi rice crackers
• Berries
• Shiratama mochi
• Dainagon adzuki beans
• Matcha soft-serve ice cream

It contains a total of 11 different ingredients. It starts with the light, fluffy texture of the cream and chiffon cake, and as it progresses, the crunchy texture of the rice crackers, the chewy texture of the shiratama, and the tartness of the lemon jam appear in random order. While the “once-in-a-lifetime” sensation of the flavor changing with every bite is the true joy of this parfait, the combination of matcha and lemon—along with the fact that the whole thing is ice-cold—creates a refreshing sensation that’s in a league of its own. I also like that the overall sweetness is subtly restrained. Plus, this bamboo bowl holds more than it looks. So when you finish this parfait, you’ll feel much fuller than you’d expect.

But actually, what I liked even more than this Maruto Parfait was the cold-brewed sencha they served as a welcome tea. It’s incredibly clear. The bitterness and richness of the sencha gradually spread throughout it, and it feels like it glides right into your body without any resistance. “Why is tea brewed at a specialty shop so different from what I make at home?” I always find myself wondering. Honestly, if they serve this for free, there’s really no need to order an additional drink.

So, after spending 30 minutes—no, actually, about three hours including the wait—at Nakamura Tokichi Main Store, I left. Man, I honestly didn’t expect to have to wait this long in the middle of the day on a weekday. I have no complaints about the café itself, but if you asked me whether it’s worth the wait… well, I’m not so sure. Since other long-established tea shops like Ito Kyuemon and Tsujirihei are within walking distance, I think it’s a good idea to enjoy matcha sweets at a different shop when it’s too crowded here.

Examples of Other Menu Items at Nakamura Tokichi Main Store (Prices include tax)

• Maruto Shaved Ice [Matcha]—2,380 yen
• Hand-Picked Tencha Summer Soba—1,980 yen (a la carte)
• Uji Kin Shaved Ice [Matcha]—1,980 yen
• Kitsune Soba Featuring Uji Tencha [ZARU or KAKE]—1,880 yen (a la carte)
• Fresh Tea Jelly [Matcha or Hojicha]—1,800 yen
• Uji Kin Chilled Zenzai [Matcha or Hojicha]—1,800 yen
• Fresh Tea Soba Featuring Uji Tencha [ZARU or KAKE]—1,880 yen (a la carte)

You can also try the “ground tea experience”… The Nakamura Tokichi Main Store is a 2-minute walk from Uji Station on the JR Nara Line, the nearest station.

At the Nakamura Tokichi Main Store, you can participate in the “ground tea experience,” where you finely grind tea leaves using a stone mill. While you can drink matcha just about anywhere in Kyoto, isn’t this a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to experience the entire process—from making matcha from scratch to preparing and drinking it—at a historic shop with over 170 years of history? As a Japanese person, I think it’s absolutely worth experiencing as part of Japanese culture and as a cultural literacy experience. It would be such a waste to let only foreign travelers enjoy such a rare opportunity!

Now, here are the shop details…

P.S. If you’re looking for a cozy café in Kyoto, be sure to check out this article as well…