Masugataya

In Demachiyanagi—the terminus of the so-called “Saba Kaido” (Mackerel Road), which was once used to transport mackerel from Wakasa Bay in Fukui to Kyoto—there is a udon restaurant called Masugataya. It’s a long-established shop said to have been in business for 100 years, and despite being a udon restaurant, it’s famous for its mackerel sushi. When it comes to mackerel sushi, there are several other famous spots in Kyoto, such as Iduju and Kishizushi, but since Masugataya is located at the former terminus of the Saba Kaido, there’s a special sense of history and story behind it, isn’t there? So, with the intention of trying their mackerel sushi, I headed to the restaurant around 12:30 p.m. on a weekday…

An Unusual Line in an Ordinary Shopping Street… How Crowded Is Masugataya, and How Long Is the Wait?

Masugataya, the shop introduced here, is located in the Demachi Masugata Shopping Street, north of the Kyoto Imperial Palace. It’s a short shopping street, about 150 meters long, and unlike the famous Nishiki Market, it isn’t teeming with tourists; rather, it’s a very ordinary shopping street lined with local grocery stores and clothing shops. Yet, right in the middle of this ordinary shopping street, well over 10 people were standing in an unusual line—even in the middle of the day on a weekday. It seems the place is well-known among international tourists as well, as the line clearly included quite a few people who looked like foreigners.

On this particular day, I managed to get inside after a wait of about 40 minutes. Inside Masugataya, there are six tables seating four people each, for a total of 24 seats. However, not only is the space compact, but the tables are also smaller than usual, so you might find it quite cramped. The atmosphere of the restaurant is exactly like a Showa-era neighborhood diner—it really doesn’t feel like a place run for profit. Yet, I honestly can’t help but wonder why so many foreigners are drawn to it…

Two slices of hearty mackerel sushi paired with Kyoto-style “koshinuke” udon… How did the mackerel sushi udon set at Masugataya actually turn out?

So, let me introduce the mackerel sushi udon set I ordered at Masugataya that day. This udon set lets you choose from three types: Kake, Kitsune, and Chilled Bukkake. This time, I went with the “Kake” version, and the price—which I was curious about—was 1,300 yen including tax (the price varies depending on the udon you choose)…

After placing my order, I waited just two or three minutes, and the udon and mackerel sushi were brought to me in the blink of an eye. Even though it’s “kake” udon, it comes with kamaboko and tororo konbu, so it doesn’t look sparse at all. As for the mackerel sushi, I got two pieces, and they were so well-made that I couldn’t believe they were part of an udon set.

First, a bite of the udon… The noodles are thin like this and cooked to a soft texture typical of Kyoto, known as “koshinuke.” Lately, I’ve been getting the feeling that udon and ramen places are competing to see who can make the firmest noodles (or is it just me?), but after eating nothing but firm noodles everywhere I go, coming across soft noodles like these every now and then really warms my heart and puts me at ease. Plus, the broth is really well-balanced, and with every slurp of udon, the pleasant aroma of bonito and kelp gently wafts up to my nose. After all, we really can’t do without this kind of nostalgic, old-school udon.

As for this mackerel sushi, first of all, each slice is huge! I’d say it’s a whole size larger than the typical mackerel sushi you find in Kyoto. Not only is the rice substantial, but the mackerel is also thick enough that even with my mouth wide open, I can’t possibly eat the whole thing in one bite. And when I actually put it in my mouth, the elegant sweetness unique to Chidori vinegar and the rich umami of the fatty mackerel wash over me like a tidal wave. This is definitely not the kind of quality you’d expect from an udon set meal. I genuinely thought to myself, “No wonder this place has become so famous…”

I finished the Masugataya mackerel sushi udon set like this in about 10 minutes and left the restaurant. Both the udon and the mackerel sushi were of the quality you’d expect from a “must-visit, line-worthy” spot, and I thought it was an incredible deal to get this set for just 1,300 yen. That said, I’d be even happier if they offered sets pairing mackerel sushi with other types of udon or soba. Personally, I’d love to try a set combining two Kyoto specialties—herring soba and mackerel sushi…

Other Menu Items at Masugataya (Prices include tax)

• Premium Eel Bowl: 5,000 yen
• Toro Nigiri: 4,000 yen
• Tempura Bowl: 2,000 yen
• Nabeyaki Udon: 1,500 yen
• Herring Soba: 1,200 yen
• Oyako-don: 1,000 yen
• Kitsune Udon: 700 yen

Mackerel sushi is also available for takeout… Masugataya is a 5-minute walk from Demachiyanagi Station on the Keihan Electric Railway (Eizan Electric Railway), the nearest station.

Masugataya’s mackerel sushi is also available for takeout…

The “Premium Whole Mackerel Sushi” is 6,000 yen per piece, and the “Premium Mackerel Sushi” is 3,000 yen per serving. In addition to mackerel sushi, the “Toro Tekka-maki” is also available for takeout at 2,500 yen per serving. The prices might seem a bit high at first glance, but they reportedly use mackerel from Bungo, Oita—the same region as the famous “Seki Saba” brand—so the quality of the mackerel is unquestionable. Since it’s not a famous chain like Izu, but rather a “hidden gem” known only to those in the know, it would surely make a much-appreciated souvenir, wouldn’t it?

Now, here are the shop details…